Jul 172017
 

The following is the second part of the travelogue I wrote following a two-week trip to Israel and the Balkans 7/24/04-8/08/04.  Slightly edited a few times since.

After leaving Israel I landed in Frankfurt Saturday evening and had a few hours to catch my night train to Vienna. I dug out the reservation I had made the previous week and found the car with my berth. The compartment was empty, except for me. I made my bed and went to sleep.

Do I need to continue here? Or can you tell that something is about to go wrong?

The train stops in other major cities on the way to its destination. In Mannheim a family got on and came into my compartment. That was fine, there was room for five more people. Unfortunately there were 6 new people. And I was the one in the wrong place. Actually, not so much the wrong place as the wrong time. I was traveling on July 31, and apparently the reservation had been made for that exact spot – on August 31. Fortunately the extra person agreed to sleep elsewhere so I got to stay where I was. Just so much for best laid plans and all.

I only had an hour in Vienna to change trains, so after buying some food for the journey I got on board for the very long trip through the tip of Austria, into Hungary with a stop in Budapest (tourism officials boarded the train, handing out maps and making hotel reservations before arrival), before heading south into Serbia. Following what I think was the Danube the terrain was flat and unremarkable, although full of agriculture (and a lot of sunflowers). The train was on schedule when it hit the Serbian border but then went very slowly into Belgrade. I thought it was interesting that by the time we arrived, new cars had been added. Cars with destination signs saying “Moscow-Belgrade” and “Kiev-Belgrade.” I definitely wasn’t in Kansas anymore… Continue reading »

Jul 172017
 

I wrote the following after a trip to Israel, Germany, and the Balkans 7/24/04-8/08/04.

Everything is connected to everything else. On a plane the year before I’d met my friend Jon. He and I stayed in touch, and when earlier this summer he said to me, “My girlfriend and I are going to Israel, would you like to come?” I naturally said “Sure!”

It was yet another trip booked with frequent flier miles, 75,000 of them. The plan was to fly Lufthansa from Washington to Tel Aviv via Frankfurt. (The Star Alliance is indeed a handy thing.) The ticket permitted a stopover in the transfer city, so I booked a weeklong layover in Frankfurt on the return from Israel. I figured I could always find something to do in Europe for a week, even if it was just going to France and hanging out on the beach, practicing my French. Continue reading »

Jul 142017
 

The following post continues the description of my visit to Poland that I took during my time as a law student in Germany.  Originally written as multiple posts in October 2005 and is the portion that best explains why I was taking the trip.

I did it again: I picked a spot on the map, and then went to go see what it was like.

The place I went to see was Suwalki, a town in the very northeast of Poland. In fact, it’s so northeastern that it hasn’t always been part of Poland. Within the past two centuries it’s also been claimed by Russia and Lithuania.

It’s a bit off the beaten trail. My Lonely Planet Eastern Europe book didn’t even list it, and it takes at least 5 hours to get to by train. (However, that says more about the speed of the train than the distance… It goes pretty fast to Bialystok, which is about two-thirds the way there, then turns into a local train that goes much slower the rest of the way. Plus they have to change the engine at a certain point because the tracks are no longer electrified.) But I had a particular reason for being there. Continue reading »

Jul 112017
 

When I was a law student in Germany I mostly stayed put in Germany so I could experience a German life.  But I did take a few trips, including this one to Poland.  Originally written October 14, 2005.

I’d forgotten how nice night trains can be. I used to take them regularly, especially as part of my marathon post-graduation 6-week trip through Europe in 1996. On that trip I think I took about 14 night trains within a month. (Actually, it was probably more like 15 if we include the Rome fiasco… plus there were also the night boats between Sweden and Finland.) My thinking always was, you have to sleep and you have to travel, so why not do both at the same time? Plus the couchettes cost no more than a hostel bed, and sleeping on the train saved me the trouble of having to find alternate lodging. In any case, this thinking is why I opted to take a night train to Poland for this trip instead of other means. Continue reading »

Jul 082017
 

The following travelogue was originally posted on a personal website that has long gone dormant.  It describes a trip taken May 30, 2004-June 5, 2004 and was originally written immediately thereafter (with an edit the following year).  I’ve given it a minor edit now (mostly to change tenses) and republished it here.

It all seemed like such a good idea at the time. A friend of mine from law school, Megan, had an internship the summer after our first year in Cambodia. For her such a position wasn’t too exotic: she’d already lived in Cambodia, having taught English there, and as a result she speaks Khmer (the local language). I, on the other hand, had never been to Asia at all, so when she said, “I’m spending two weeks in Thailand before I start; why don’t you come with me?” it seemed like the perfect excuse to finally get to visit the world’s largest continent. Sixty-thousand frequent flyer miles later, I had a ticket booked. Continue reading »